Bistro Saigon, Ilkley

6 August 2008

An almost-empty restaurant normally sounds alarm bells but this is the second time I have eaten in Bistro Saigon with former mother-in-law (now outlaw rather than in-law)and found ourselves to be nearly the only diners present. This is a mystery as the food is excellent, the service cheerful, and though the back of the railway line is not the most salubrious bit of town, the view from the window at least provides entertainment in the form of passers-by.
We ate the set lunch, which was really the usual a la carte but at bargain prices - two courses of food of this quality for under a tenner is not to be sniffed at. I have eaten Vietnamese food before only on the continent, both in France and in Brussels, and this seems the authentic deal as far as I can tell.
My starter of chicken wings was generous - there must have been a eight or nine wings from a very well-nourished bird - with a zesty coating of ginger, spring onions and other aromatic ingredients which revved the tastebuds into overdrive. Initially thinking that I would sensibly eat only half the portion, I soon found myself looking down on a heap of pathetic little bones, which appeared to have been gnawed clean by some starving predator. My only criticism is that the skin could have been crispier so that I could have eaten that as well. And completely blown the diet. Spring rolls come with lettuce leaves and mint, to wrap them in, and a sharp, sweet chilli dip. When I had these in France, they were called 'Nems' and served identically.
Main courses were similarly generous and served with a bowl of rice which had the authentically stickyness that becomes addictive after a while. Chilli beef with peppers was tender, melting, tangy and with a slight kick that didn't frighten the Outlaw. A green chicken curry did rather, being slightly hotter than anticipated. But I found it perfect, the long strips of chicken a perfect textural match for the soft aubergine cubes, which sponge-like had absorbed the flavours of lemongrass and lime. A sweet and sour prawn with pickled vegetables was a little bland and pallid by comparison but the prawns were huge and had the thinnest and lightest coating of batter.
Verdict: value for money 9/10 service 9/10 quality of food 9/10